Shizuoka Surf Trip September 16th 2012.
Typhoon No.16 Samba - 920hPa
What a day to remember Saturday 15th we got to hang out with our good friends from Shizuoka Surf Thiego , Ruy and the Crew , that threw a stunning
BBQ Party in the evening with fantastic food and open air surf movies.
We then put our heads down for all but 4 hrs worth of sleep crashing in the Vans right on the beach. As the hours went pass the sound of the waves started to increase and by 4.15 am there was a steady dull thumping off what sounded like 6-8ft perfection.
As first light broke there was already a steady stream of locals car's pulling into the parking zone, with guys waxing up their boards and setting up their cameras. Its a real special tight crew down here everyone one knows everyone, they all smile and say high as well as do that all to familiar hand shake. It feels more like Brazil or Portugal than Japan for a brief moment. Then We grab our first glimpse of what the morning holds, a solid 6ft wave breaking to perfection,then the second is 7ft throwing a little bit more, then the beast a solid 8-footer that throws a pit so big it gets everyone cheering that's just seen it.
At that its a mad scramble to grab everything and get out there. What followed was 5 hours worth of some of the best Barrel riding i have seen in Japan and for sure some of the deepest for a beach break. We will forever remember this day as an "EPIC" one. Shizuoka we scored.
We will let the photos speak for themselves.
Special thanks to Thiego and Ruy & the whole Shizuoka crew for a very special time.