Team SIJ 2010 /2011 Bali Winter Surf Trip Diary
Bali the land of the eternal summer wave, the land of great people, great food,great night life, and great weather , and of course great waves.
We are so Happy to be back!
The trip starts on Friday 17th December 2010 , at 6.00am in the morning with a van jammed full to the roof with family members and bags and surfboards, the trip begins.
2 hr drive out to Narita Airport............
17th December ,7.00pm we clear customs and are met by our good friend Made and Andy ,who help us with our bags and get us back to Hotel Lusa, The whole crew are there to welcome us back as, per normal , with big smiles and open arms. One of the reasons we keep coming back.
We dump the bags in the room just before we are hit with a huge thunderstorm and massive rains,
We hit the resturant over the road crack the Bingtangs order up a feast , and toast the fact we made it back.!! Happy days .
Saturday 18th December
A quick check of Kuta beach and the reefs shows its onshore , but big and Junky , Andy turned up with the wheels late last night so, we threw the boards in the car and headed for the other side straight away, Serangan , Ah its good to be back, solid 2-4ft waves or over head on the sets, But clean and Glassy, at 6.00am 5 out, time to go join them!! We start with a few sucky lefts and notice the tide is starting to drop fast thus the right should start working, low and behold 20 mins later, all hell started breaking lose, nice clean right hand walls, at head high !! Dan the man on the body board gave the wave of the day to me, right hand solid drop then a 60m plus wall, which i tore to pieces best i could. Last turn board fully out of the lip !! I'm back may this continue for the next 3 weeks.
2.20mins total 16 waves caught 2 - 4 ft offshore (Extra Photos Click Here)
Afternoon session and its back over to Serangan, huge festival going on, the roads are packed with people, children and cows all done up in their Sunday best all down at the Temple, the smells that go with it are sensational.
As we pull up to Surf City Warung, we are pleased to see the swell has picked up now in the 5-6ft range or almost double over head on the set waves, still offshore and the tide starting to go out. A pack of 30 cover the 2 peaks. Our team hit the left hander one riding his 6,5' Lift model board from Sean in Hawaii, with the mission to get busy from the get go. First big set wave he made a point of owning it just to set the mood! Ropey take off but the rail grabbed well and the speed was wild, 3 big turns out of the lip and 70m + later a happy person paddles back. The rest of the session went well, although the wind picked up hard offshore, Had to paddle hard to get into them but the reward was great. With the swell expected to get bigger in the morning, its a few cold bintags and off to bed early. Fingers crossed for the morning. (Extra Photos Click Here)
Sunday 19th December, super early start, check of Kuta and still onshore, so a brisk drive over to the other side of the island to Serangan, Upon arrival the word WOW jumped to mind. Perfect 6 -10 ft direct from the south with no wind.
20 guys spread out over the 3 peaks with outsides reef on fire, 20 min sets were rolling through and cleaning up the enire pack at times. Huge take offs, with running walls left and right. Amazing. One of the crew, got an amazing barrel only to get pummeled by the lip and sucked back up and over the falls ,basically upon exit getting thrown out a 2 story building window. Ouch! then a 20 minute paddle back with 20 plus on the head. Arms screaming body and lungs wanting to give up on many occasions.
3 hr in the water 11 waves caught 6 - 10 ft , tripple overhead on the sets Stoked.
Back over to Kuta and breakfast with the team, and time to write up this.. (Extra Photos Click Here)
A couple more photos of this wonderful island Bali In Indonesia.
Hotel Lusa / www.hotellusakuta.com / firstname.lastname@example.org / email@example.com / JI.Pantai Kuta / Gg. Benesari / Kuta Bali / Tel: 0361 753714
Fax: 0361 765691 / Ask for Wayane or Madde they both speak English. / And will pick you up from the Airport for free. / The best Hotel in Bali!!!!
Sunday afternoon update, and its was 100% back over to serangan, and blimmey, all hell had brokenlose a huge rain storm blew through at the same time wave height went to triple over head sometimes more, but as we know when your in boardies and warm water, bring it on!! the rain lasted about 45 mins after which it cleared and left us with perfect 6 - 8ft conditions with regular sets about 4 mins apart. A lot of old faces have started to appear back in the line up like the crazy Italian and Paul from the UK. The final 2.5 hour session was almost a glass off and somthing very special. Happy Days ! What will tomorrow bring we wonder. We will have to wait and see, off to see the local massage lady 1 hr for only 500yen . Nice.
2.45 hr total in the water 9 waves caught 6 - 10 ft , tripple overhead on the sets Best waves thus far. (Extra Photos Click Here)
December 20th 2010, a drive up to Keramas and Sanur secrects early on in a massive rain storm, upon arrival at both locations waves were smaller than expected in the sholder to head high range, this added with the wild weather put the team back on the road heading for the 3rd straight day to Serangan.
However upon arrival there the rain became so strong you could only see 20ft in front of you. Time to sit it out. Well worth it 40 mins later the clouds blew over the wind dissipated and we ended up with double overhead perfection. Massive A-frame waves from the left hand section of the reef, (should have taken out my water camera) A stack of great riding was going down especially by the local boys who were taking off so deep it was almost scary to watch some of the wipeouts!! But i have to say as well I'm gob smacked there was not a single broken board.
Long sesssion this morning 3.15min Total 14 waves caught - 1 epic right hand cover up ride, 8 lefts , 6 rights and 2 massive wipeouts from hell
Afternoon session and finally Kuta beach has got a ridable wave , the wind has gone completely as well, which is going to set things up nicely for tomorrow morning for a run over to Canngu and a bit of the right hander in the river mouth , fingers crossed. Below hot dogging Kuta Beach Action.
A few more top pics for a top day here in Bali, its now time to go and Drink some Bintang and have a Pizza!
Tuesday 21st December and we had a bit of a lie in today and grabbed the hotel breakfast on the way out the door, Scrambled eggs on toast and 4 cups of coffee (we always bring our own jar of Gold Blend - Bali Coffee is Ok but you can not beat your home favorite) we had high hopes for a windless day but nothing goes as planned as we all know. It was same old same old, back over to the other side, so we decided to check out the reef at Sanur first off, but got hit with yet another massive rain storm, and the team decided to play it safe and pull off at serangan again. Good call wave height was still in the head to double over head size but the swell had moved round about 10 degrees making for some big bomb sets coming through on the middle part of the reef. Coupled with the full moon and high tides, some of the drops were hairy as it was breaking hard and fast. Some even closing out in 100M walls. (Extra Photos Click Here)
We had a quick 1.5 hr break with a bowl of mamas Soup and Veggie noddles knocked back with a ice cold bintang, Then straight back into the line up on the outgoing tide, much the same as the first session, One of the team riding his 6,5 seems to have finally sorted it out and the confidence is back, feet positioning critical as well as weight balance over the center of the board, Wave of the day was a head and a half right hander back over the left hand section of the reef so big quick jacking barrel spat out and then a big hack followed by one more big top turn but thrown off as not enough strength in the legs. Stoked.
A great day all round, lets see what tomorrow will bring, fingers crossed for the swell to stick around, and for the weather to brighten up. All good though!!
Wednesday 22nd 5.30am start today, well worth the effort though, blue sky from the off, and no traffic on the roads
, it was a quick run up to Sanur with fingers crossed the reef would be cranking on the lower tide
but alas the swell direction had changed again and thus it was not working.We also checked Sanuer secrets, but with
a pack of 8 already out and all seeming to be mates , we decided to head back to Serangan,
upon arrival nice glass conditions with tight A-frames
breaking on the shallow part of the reef. This is when Serangan can be really good as the wave hollows up.
About 6 guys were out only 3 catching anything so it was nice to have a solid session of back to back riding,
2 fantastic right handers caught, fast and both hollow over the centre section of the reef, 1 of them not quick enough back up from the bottom turn so could
not make it under the lip instead ended up going round the section and banging of the wall. The other nailed it big bottom turn
letting the board get sucked back up, then crouched grabbed the rail and Urika!!! slotted. Oh if only it was that easy everytime.
Size was in the head to head and a half on the sets.
A quick bit of shopping in the afternoon at Rip Curl outlet, new pair of Mirage Boardies, and a set of new Future fins. Then followed by a 2 hour session out at Serangan on the low tide. Stunning is all that can be said, Board shorts are insane they sell them as you do not feel like your wearing anything and 100% Agree!!
New fins wild had them on the 6,1 Guppy and drive is great gives the board that little extra grip in punchy swell.
10 waves caught in 2hr session, 1 epic right hander which i destroyed , could have not done anything better with it. 1 Monster drop take of on a double over head bomb outta now where and coked it !!Bollocks!! still need to improve on the left steep drops. Talk of the swell dropping tomorrow, but looks off the scale from Sunday onwards!!
Thursday 23rd 2010- We had a lazy start to the day with a nice big fat lie in till 8.30am then a hearty breakfast of eggs and bacon, followed by a 2 km jog on Kuta beach with camera in Tow, a few small shoulder high sets coming through and windless conditions, but not worth kitting up for. Sun was out today and it was hot!! We decided to head for Canngu, upon arrival the high tide was coming in and some of the sets were head and a bit high, loads of guys getting out, great so we decided to hit the river mouth right hander. 10 in the water and frequent sets coming through, knowing this right hander so well is the key you can sit deep and charge, but looks scary to the beginners full barrel from the take off then running wall over the sand, truly a little Gem when its on fire.The left in front of the warungs was a bit full on the high tide but still the sets producing nice long easy rides.
Break for lunch!. Met Russian photographer , now living in OZ.
Back in at 2.00pm for 1.30 session, wind came onshore so everybody got out and left it to me an 2 other guys, wind only lasted 20mins, yippee 26 waves in 1.30 hr flat So much fun throwing big jumps at the end of each wave or blasting the last turn really really nice. Fingers crossed the weather stays the same , and the swell starts to pick up. We will be back for sure for a few river mouth barrels and thrashings!!
Off for a seafood Barbee at a local friends house tonight, will be interesting to see what the locals have been catching.
Friday 24th December 2010 - Another early start to the day, the sun was big and bright today, super low tide at 6.00am so only tiny waves pretty much everywhere . We had the usual drive round and check of a few places before heading back to Serangan, almost like a daily ritual this year. We waited for the tide to fill in and with it came a bit of size the sets at 2.00pm were breaking in the shoulder high range. There was a whole lot of beginners in the water which made it easy to grab every set wave that came through, still nice walls to be torn to pieces and the odd inside cover up if you had the speed built up. Best bit of the day was watching all the hot girls riding in Bikinis! Happy Days.
In the afternoon we met with our good friend Yomen and her family who took us to the goverment offices, to get the paper work on owning property in Bali in your name. The last few years the government changed the rules to finally allow foreign people to own Land Outright in their own name. Thus the Chinese and Russians and Australians are here buy the bus load, many new Hotels and Apartments are going up and The 350 million Dollar Sheraton Hotel smack in the middle of Kuta Beach is proof this small island is on the up and up.Then it was one quick session back at serangan and a few cold beers. Hope of size up in the swell tomorrow fingers crossed.
December 25th 2010 - Christmas Day , only a real quick early session at 8.00 through till 10.00 am today, wave height was small at only waist to set waves in the shoulder region, great to be in the water though and it was stinking hot and sunny. There was a great vibe in the water of course due to what day it is .
Below are a few of the presents we got this year we hope they improve our surfing no end. Bring on the big waves so we can find out.
The New Mirage Boardies from Rip Curl.
Fantastic no more leg rash and they dry in 2 mins flat.
Blown away how you dont even know your wearing them. Ta Santa.
We had them on both the 6,1 Guppy model which seems to give it extra holding power on the bigger waves and less side slip down the face as well. So a great combination.
On th 6,5 Lift model they are a true dream,
December 26th 2010 - Most of last night spent without power, and an Ugly start to the morning with howling winds and rain, coming of the Typhoon sitting off the top of Australia. So we stayed at the hotel for breakfast, then at 9.00am the clouds departed an left us with crystal clear skys and
scorching sunshine. We hit the road, a quick stop at Sanur showed little size was getting in there so we headed north to Serangan yet again.
Upon arrival 60 plus in the water and waves in the sholder height range. A good session was looking doubfull, Upon arrival in the line up the first big set presented itself
as did the ability of most of the surfers out.(beginers) apart from the guy that went for the same set wave as myself.
Both taking off at the same time and going right myself 1ft inside of him, when waves are crytical some times you have no choice but to go, in this circumstance
no other option (a drop in) but with 20 guys and girls to dodge while riding the wall it was impossible to get off the wave. Till 40 meters down the line.
An imeddiate apoligy was given only to recieve a mouth full back. (Point) Japanese Surfer with attitude. Basically paid a fortune to come to Bali in peak season
for 5 days. (Advice) Surfing is supposed to be good for mind body and soul , If you ever have the same situation do what I did and turn and burn on the next big set
and make sure you demolish it and continue to do that for the rest of the session.The guy with verbal diarrhea will soon get board.
14 waves caught in 1.10 mins. ( plus will never forget a rude face)
We then had a quick lunch followed by getting straight back in as everyone else was getting out for lunch,
wave height had gone up to the head high size and only 15 out, great session riding the 6,5 as a quad for the first time.
Fast and quick down the line with stacks of grip. 22 waves in 1.20 mins
Tomorrow should see a pick up in size so its off to bed early.
Monday 27th December 2010 - Super early start today, so early forgot to take the camera, super low tide as well, nice little A-frames breaking up and down the serangan reef till around 10.00am thats when the tide filled it in too much and the wind picked up. Bailed and spent the afternoon at the Tailors ordering shirts and New Team SIJ Polo Shirts - Photos to come once they are done. Camera is charging as we speak and will be put in the car tonight .
Tuesday 28th December 2010 - The earliest start yet 5.00am call, Due to the tides going to super low at 9.00am so the goal was in the water by 5.30
The tide was already low upon arrival, but producing some lovley fat breaking rides, with only 3 other out as well ,it really was great to be able to pic the eyes out of it. Waves only just head high on the drop then then shoulder to waist high walls. The odd cover up up for grabs as well. There was also a water photographer out taking snaps of those perfect barrels that are produced when the tide is so low. Loads of fun for about 1.5 hrs then the tide dropped even further and so did wave size with it. Of course the number of surfers went up as well. Time to get out!!. 2 hr session 28 waves caught.
The traffic around Kuta is starting to get out of control due to the peak season being here. The wind is due to swing from tomorrow as well and Canngu / Kuta / Balian should be off shore with some size we hope. Fingers and Toes are crossed. Off to see a house that is being built 1 acre of Land and 4 bedroom pad all for the tidy sum of 3million Japanese yen locals price, 290,000 US dollars Tourist price. Amazing eh!! Good to know the locals.
Wednesday 29th December 2010 -Last night we swapped the car for a motor Bike for the next 3 days due to so much traffic in and round the Kuta area, basically meaning we can use the old local road knowledge to get back to the hotel in descent time. It took friends more than 2 hrs to go 200m yesterday.
We started out at 6.00am and headed down to Nusa Dua but upon arrival decided that too many were out and wave height would be better further down the coast. So we headed for Green Bowls. But we came across a little spot that alas we did not know the name of until after we got out and found someone to ask, Nyang Nyang ! a first time for the SIJ team, fun lefts and rights in the head high range , but by 10 the world turned up.This place has around 300 steps to climb down to get to the beach, coming up is a mare. But worth it I suppose. There is supposed to be 5 star swell heading our way and Jan1st there is talk of it all going off. Fingers crossed.
We only have pictures of Kuta beach today as no where to keep the big camera on the bike. Will try and take the small one tomorrow though.
Only 2 days left till the new year, and 4 of SIJ friends flying in tonight, should be a great party.
A couple of photos of Nyang Nyang below.
Thursday 30th December 2010 - 5.30am kick of, with a friend in tow, and it was straight over to Serangan as we knew we would only surf the morning session before returning to Kuta before the traffic madness. Upon arrival no one was out, clean sets in the head high rolling through and glass. We paddled out and had exactly 3 waves too ourselves before 4 or 5 others turned up. For sure no ground swell as yet, but that is due to arrive in 2 days time, clean as a whistle lefts and rights all morning till around 9.00am when we finally decided too many others had turned up. Tides are good at the moment with the half moon there is not much either way. Scorded one really nice right hander with the back foot fully planted on the pad from take of, with a perfectly executed bottom turn into a wonder whack off the top followed by a few more turns down the line wave length over 50m for sure. New years eve tomorrow so everything will be nuts, the call will be stay in Kuta surf main beach if possible other wise hide by the pool before hitting the beach for the fireworks.
The weather has come really good again as well hot and sunny from 10.00m onwards nice!!. 24 waves in 3.5 hrs
One thing I have for sure noticed about my surfing in 2010 is that quality waves are so much fun and the frustration levels go up the better you get, when you see great waves go un-ridden or you mess them up yourself, The yearn for perfection just gets stronger and stronger. In a sense I'm glad I'm not professional they must go nuts when it is flat for weeks on end.
December 31st 2010 - The final day of 2010 and it was a surfing bonanza in Bali, Padaman beach break on the super low tide early morning was producing head high super sucky sand barrels galore. Not for the faint hearted at all, as super heavy and a pounding taken if you cooked the take off. For sure some of the heaviest beach break I have ever surfed. Then the long awaited ground swell turned up this afternoon just in time with the high tide and Kuta beach just went off. Shoulder to Head high take offs with wally fast rides going left and right across the sand bar, windless conditions. A perfect way to finish the year off , could not get out so stayed in till it was dark 4.5 hrs 60 plus waves caught , Really really Stoked. Just wish i had someone on the beach with the camera . Pictures are from this morning only.So do not do the afternoon justice. Happy New Year time to go drink some Bintangs and have a barbee!!
When Im Surfing Is When I am Happiest I Want To Thank Every One At Team SIJ For A Fantastic Year Of Surfing Bring On 2011
January 1st 2011 - The New Year has begun with a bit of a bang! Unbelievable session this morning, Kuta Beach on the outgoing tide just was fantastic, me and 3 others out at 6.00am solid head and a bit sets and just nice sucky take offs then walls that went right to the beach, 3 hours out and 45 plus waves ridden.
Wow just got out and had one of the best sessions since I have been here Kuta Beach just pumping, double over head sets coming through and massive right and left handers to be had at Half ways. Ridding the 6,5 SOS board and finally can say - nailed how to ride it with style and even rip on it. Gotta get low in the bottom turn, compressing is the key, back foot back and looking up at the lip, totally stoked to have finally worked it out, as I was a bit worried for a minute. 4 hours out till it was dark on the incoming tide, 35plus waves but at least 10 of the biggest right handers to come through, one with a instant barrel upon take off blasting straight out onto a perfect double overhead shoulder, then wall all the way to the beach 90m plus one of the best beach break waves I have ever had. Stunning. Photos from low tide . Do not do the day any justice what so ever.
Sunday 2nd January 2010 - Started of this morning with a run over to serangan, and a 2 hour session as the tide was going out, nice solid head high sets coming through with a 16 second period, about 10 waves caught. with mostly right hand waves ridden. A small crowd was out as well due to the lack of wind everywhere. meaning most of the breaks on the island were working. Australian crew of guys staying at the hotel hit Canggu reef and scored nice solid head high sets as well. A nice power nap after that from about 11.00am till 2.00pm
After noon session kicked of at 3.30pm as the tide was starting to push in, and it was back out at Kuta beach Half Way point and it was cranking solid double over head sets grinding the sand bar sometimes in 100 plus meter sections, but every 10th wave or so would be a working of the left or right bar and away you go lightning fast walls with spitting lips. A couple of really nice lefts nailed on the backhand so happy with that. As the tide filled in the size did as well , one set was of epic proportions and 3 local guys nailed every one steam training down the line like bullets out a gun, one pulling 5m ollies as he went, the 4th wave however was a beach clean up monster, Double and a bit and broke a clear 30 further out and destroyed half the field, super heavy ouch! Back to it and the rest of the session finished with right and left hand big drops and fast passed riding and frantic paddle backs. Great to feel alive, High light of the day though has to be, sitting in Brasil restaurant and a bolt of lightning hitting the road directley outside, no joke I have never heard anything that loud in my life , I thought it was a bomb! wow
January 3rd 2011 - Sitting by the pool writing this, This morning is still a haze after the poundings I took. right fore arm took a real beating, on the hold down from hell, Real size today over the other side at Serangan, double over head on some of the sets that at 6.00am were every 5 mins or so. 3 to 5 waves a set and they just got bigger and bigger. 6 to 8 guys out only. As from the beach it looked big and that thought alone was turning a lot away. 1 huge right hander in particular was insane nice solid in the pocket take off one bottom turn, then let the board fade back up the wave and then set the rail and the speed went from 3mph to 40mph instantly, 100m plus later I pulled the ejector handle and went clear 8ft out over the lip. Caught 4 or 5 more waves whilst dogging the super sets before taking a monster on the head and getting washed clear 200yards over the reef, Game over paddled in with the perfect right hander under the belt.
Second session - It was a quick run up to Sanur Secrets instead of back to the hotel, and upon arrival 6 out and cranking right handers. Boardies back on and a quick paddle out. Surfed till the arms fell off , and took a couple of serious beatings due to being so tiered , amazing how quickly your surfing gets crap when you are knackered. Great to get it though and was great watching the local boys rip the sets apart.
January 4th 2011 - Well we started with a great lie in today till 8.30 am as we knew the tides and the wind were not in our favor for the early session , so we kicked back at the hotel till 10.30 . We then made our way over to Serangan for the arrival of the high tide and what we hoped would be great conditions, And Urika head and a half sometimes the occasional double over head set pumping through. We made our way out to the line up and found only 20 or so surfers , fantastic, then spent 2.5 hrs having a blast catching wave after wave lefts and rights. Seriously rippable. 18 waves caught 2.5 hrs Nice
Afternoon session - Quick break for lunch at mamas warung Surf City, nice bowl of noodles washed down with Bali High, As the tide started to drop the wind went to perfect offshore and the sun came out in all her glory, Perfect conditions. Head to head and a half on the sets, and just peeling over the reef. Consistent right handers back over the shallow section of the reef, easy to make sections on the smaller ones then fast passed on the bigger sets with the odd cover up available. Simply a dream of a surf day, scored one of the longest waves of the trip at least 150m plus all the way in. And a right hander with a steam train of a wall that was sensational. Topped up the tan as well and the drive back was easy as the holiday traffic has gone for sure. Only 2 days of the trip to go fingers crossed the size and conditions stay the same.
January 5th 2011 - second to last day and we had a big fat lie in again then a huge breakfast then a quick check of Kuta beach before deciding where to go, because the winds were so light Kuta beach was classic summer style surf nice waist high sets coming through but peeling for 70m plus on the sand bars but all the surf schools were out and loving it. Blue sky sun shinning perfect day really. So we opted to go to Canngu upon arrival high tide had just passed and the main peak only had about 6 guys on it and it was a bit fat but we really only wanted to get wet and then veg out and have some time to chill and reflect on what a great trip it had been. 12 waves caught in 1 hr . Then on the way home we stopped and checked out 4 or 5 stone factory's and wood yards, to grab a bunch of names and numbers. Followed by checking 2 or 3 of the new villas and condominiums that are being built here in Bali.
The afternoon session we walked down to Padman where upon arrival the super low tide was producing fantastic waist to shoulder high peeling zippy wall rides, amazing such small waves can be so clean and so classic, because the waves were moving so slowly you could take off really deep 2 or 3 pumps and then hold the line and get barreled, probably one of the easiest tube sessions I have ever had. 30 plus waves in 2 hrs . A really good way to end the day.
January 6th 2011- final day - A great morning surf at Padman with some nice little sholder high sets coming through, time to reflect on what a great trip it has been this time round, great surf great food and great to catch up with people we have not seen for so long.
The final Comment on the 2010 / 2011 Surfing In Japan Surf Trip.